Friday, March 19, 2010

Salam - a hummusy bridge to the heart


For our dedicated readers, consisting entirely of people who write this blog and people who appear on this blog, the new installment of GCL has been a long time coming. In my defense I had finals for which I didn’t particularly study for and dates with women that didn’t particularly like me. Procrastination and frustrated courtship are time consuming activities that leave little for self-involved food blogging.


At Chlodnik favorite Salam (4636 N Kedzie Ave) in the heart of Albany Park's Middle Eastern community, the vegetarian selections so overpowered the meat choices that it was criminal…were that disparity personified in a troubled and misunderstood jazz great, it would go by Felonious Monk. The Halal meat dishes were satisfactory; neither breaking new ground nor resetting the scale for Middle Eastern fare. Still the labna, fried cheese, and lentil soup earned a GCL first – a golden marker denoting a Chittlins fave on the GCL food map - solely on the strength of the vegetarian menu. This is of particular accomplishment considering that they neither serve nor allow booze on the premises.

The flavors were layered, though not nearly as complex as our diners’ personal lives, which if they were a food, could only exist as dishes in the nightmare kitchen of depraved, manic genius Thai chef. In her GCL debut, I Am The Law shared a her man troubles in a story that managed to make the emotionally retarded child that resides in the husk of this humble food voyeur seem like a positively well-adjusted understander of women. Any breakup email that starts with, “How was your trip to X? I hope you found the man of your dreams while there!” promises off-the-chart scores on Wow-Even-An-Emotionally-Retarded-Child-Like-Chittlins-Knows-Not-To-Do-That scale. This is of particular accomplishment considering that there has never been a woman that I’ve had a relationship with that hasn’t deserved an apology (“relationship” here defined as anything from a romantic liaison on through sharing an elevator).

Sunday, March 7, 2010

Polish night - we're three-dimensional people

The idea for a Polish-themed outing was partially conceived by Sizzlenutz’s proposal to explore something uniquely Chicagoan; and then fully impregnated by Chlodnik’s links to “Pretty Women Contests” at Polish night clubs. GCL newcomers Mixed Signals, Lady Vol, and husband Crispin Glover complemented regulars Sizzlenutz, Chlodnik and Toupee on an evening that promised much and delivered more.

Staropolska Restauracja (3028 N. Milwaukee) in Avondale has recently been refurbished to a castle theme, though there was nothing medieval about the strikingly beautiful émigré waitress who parted the Iron Curtain to my heart. Oh sweet, darling Sylwia…how can I make you understand what you made me feel? Will we enter a Warsaw Pact after someone translates the long, drunken prose preceding my phone number that I scrawled on the napkin? How can I communicate that marrying me will not only provide American papers but also the income potential of a UChicago MBA? Are there any words in any language that could communicate such beautiful convenience?

The second hottest dish after the waiting staff was the actual food. Staropolska’s specials fulfilled the spirit and the law of the GCL mission – the best food in Chicago for under $10. I had expected the drabness of soviet-era architecture bleeding into the food of Central Europe based on my solitary Polish experience at Santa Monica’s moderately well-regarded Warszawa. But the skillful, elegant execution of straight-forward peasant fare with quality ingredients produced a hearty though not bloating meal that ranks high on the all-time GCL list. Staropolska is must-go food destination in Chicago.

Sylwia recommended the Polish Plate –sausage on a bed of sauerkraut, potato pancake with cream, stuffed cabbage, Polish gnocci and a whole bunch of shit I can’t remember but that needless to say makes no accommodation for the starch and carb-averse; Lady Vol ordered the tender, well-seasoned pork chops (if I were to write a blog about Brazilian bikini contests, it would be called “Well Seasoned Chops”); Sizzlenutz’s beef stew in a crepe-like wrapping allowed the natural flavors of the ingredients to mesh without losing their distinction. However, the vegetarians in the group had a much more limited range of choice, but it is their own fault for denying the natural order. This was unapologetically Polish fare for Polish people by Polish people. We accompanied our meal with $4 Zywiec beers, and $3 Polish vodka shots (Zubrowka Bison Grass) that prove vodka can be robust and masculine without the flavor profile of paint thinner. Anyone who orders a mixed drink with decent vodka deserves to be cold cocked by a Stasi spy-catcher (okay, that’s East Germany but no one would have recognized a Bezpieka reference).



After dinner, we rushed to reach our next destination before they started charging cover. Imagine that a 1980s Cuban drug lord was asked to design the interior of a night club for Central Europeans expats. Now take that image and add more mirrored walls, disco balls, laser lights, and fog. Welcome to Jedynka (5616 W Diversey) in Belmont Central. There are many things that can and should be said about Jedynka, but the best testimonial I can provide is that there is now a picture floating around the web that would harpoon any political aspirations I might have….and I consider myself the victim.


The $4 martini specials won us no heteronormative accolades, but they provided enough liquid courage for me to approach three polski princesses at the bar. It being Lent, (or “Post” as they call it), they could neither drink alcohol nor dance with a Latino (that seems awfully specific, right?). In any case, I ordered a round of grapefruit juices and engaged in a broken English conversation about Facebook (drunken scrawl on a napkin: check), the merits of Mexican versus Polish Catholicism, and the Polish affinity for pleather (okay, that last one was made up).


In an evening where we discovered that the guy who would start meditating mid-conversation on a blind date with Mixed Signals was the same alleged sex-offender joining Sizzlenutz and Chlodnik’s lab; when of all the controversial things I say (defending Kobe Bryant is equated with defending rape outside of LA), the one that turned the women folk against me was about how a woman’s fantasy involves a guy listening to her complain about the people at her job; it was driving a drunk Sizzlenutz at 3am that Sizzlenutz encapsulated Polish night better than I ever could: “Look, I’ll say it…we’re three-dimensional fucking people”.


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Thursday, March 4, 2010

Primo Ciao Ciao - a Södermalm afternoon

I’ve already apologized once (to my diary) so this seems a bit redundant, but here goes – “I’m sorry I haven’t written in a while”. Alright, now for what you’ve all been waiting for, a bonafide ToucanSam GCL post…

Today it was sunny in Stockholm. Since this only happens about once every other week, I try to go outside and generate as much Vitamin D as my sun-deprived body can manage. I decided to pair this experience with a walk through Stockholm's Södermalm neighborhood. Lonely Planet describes it as “Stockholm’s coolest ‘hood, jammed with up-and-coming boutiques … it melds indie cool with old-school Söder shab”. Its as if Stockholm heard ToucanSam was coming and decided to he needed a place to ‘roost’. (that’s the last one, I promise)

My first stop after getting off the T was 6/5/4 (Nytorgsgatan 27), one of the many aforementioned ‘up-and-coming boutiques’. This one attempted to combine a surf shop with designer clothes (think Penguin and Red Collar Project) and a café. Of course I felt a little out of place because my jeans looked more like jeans rather than male leggings but the concept works. If I’m ever in the need of stripped Waldo socks, a longboard and Italian coffee, I know exactly where to go. And now, so do you.

Just down the street from 6/5/4 is Primo Ciao Ciao (Bondegatan 44). Its chalkboard listing the day’s lunch specials included the Bagarens (Baker's) Special vegetarian pizza for 80SEK (~$11.20) with unlimited side salad and bread piqued this food critic’s interest. Apologies for the more than usual number of photos but the restaurant is worth seeing.


I was starting to figure out what made Södermalm different; like 6/5/4, Primo Ciao Ciao was not just a restaurant. It was a mini Italian grocery store that managed to squeeze a deli and the obligatory Italian-made espresso machine all into in a very small area. Your favorite demanding Swedish customer was beginning to get the picture, he needed to start drinking way more expensive Italian coffee.

I sat at the window at the seats meant for parties of one. The pizza arrived just as I was finishing the side salad (in this case side salad is misleading, it was basically cabbage pickled in vinegar and salt). Let me take a moment here and try to describe this pizza in all its pfefferoni (banana pepper) glory. Sure this is no Sarpino’s (627 West Lake Street) or even Piece with their sublime, some might even say pugnacious, hot banana peppers; but I will argue this Bagarens Special should be proud to stand up and announce itself. The rödlök (red onions) combined with artistic splotches of grön pesto (green pesto) and the whole, unadulterated, yet still somehow de-juiced banana peppers made the pizza bold and irresistible.

The whole experience only lasted about 30 minutes because, let’s face it, without a newspaper or book for companionship, sitting at the window ledge can get boring fairly quickly. Plus, there were more combination boutiques to discover…